Antique 1890s 1900s French Opera Costume by Mathieu & Solatges – Medieval Tunic with Chainmail Hem Lion

c.1890s - 1900 French Opera Costume by Mathieu & Solatges – Medieval Tunic with Chainmail Hem

An extraordinary and rare opera costume, made by the Parisian costumiers Mathieu & Solatges of 18 Rue Laffitte. This atelier supplied garments for the Opéra-Comique in Paris, and their work is noted for its exceptional hand craftsmanship and use of fine materials. This particular piece—a medieval-style tunic—is a standout example of their artistry and attention to historical stylization.

The tunic is made from green wool and lined in linen. It features padded sleeves in a striking cream and green striped cotton, cream wool trim at the hem, and a dramatic lower hem in metal chainmail. Covered buttons run up the back. At the center front is an appliquéd lion crest—bold, graphic, and beautifully executed.

As was common in theatre costume production, garments were often adapted or reworked from earlier pieces, incorporating elements from older stock to suit new roles or productions. This tunic may contain such historical layers.

Measurements:

Underarm to underarm: 22”

Shoulders: 18”

Waist: 21.5”

Length: 40” (not including chainmail hem)

Condition:

Very good overall for its age and intended use. This piece has been gently steamed but not laundered. There are a few marks on the cream hem, minor moth nibbles and small holes, and some missing metal links in the chainmail. A few buttonholes are split or close to splitting and would benefit from reinforcement stitching.

Provenance:

Mathieu & Solatges are listed in several early 20th-century opera programs and were known for dressing major productions at the Opéra-Comique. Their costumes rarely appear on the market and are prized for their theatrical authenticity and quality.

This is a truly special piece of operatic history—ideal for collectors, museums, or those with a passion for historical costume design.

Please inspect all photos and feel free to message with any questions.

Shipping note:

This piece weighs approximately 2.6kg (unboxed). Shipping is calculated to reflect that, and any overages will be refunded.