Cabinet 49
Antique French Renaissance Revival Theatrical Costume Roize Fils / Aristide Boyer Marseille | c. 1890–1910
Antique French Renaissance Revival Theatrical Costume Roize Fils / Aristide Boyer Marseille | c. 1890–1910
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The tunic is made from a deep green silk velvet and designed in a Renaissance Revival style typical of period productions. It has a pleated front bodice with a gathered skirt section, and dramatically padded puff shoulders that retain their original structure. The outer sleeves are long and open, lined in a brilliant canary yellow, creating theatrical contrast against the rich green velvet. The inner sleeves and high neckline are a striking crimson red, with the same red fabric extending through the front chest panel to visually anchor the design. Real gold metallic thread trim has been hand-applied to the front, sleeves, and edges, creating ornate decorative accents appropriate for noble or historical stage characters.
The tunic is entirely hand-stitched, including the buttonholes. The back closes with a small metal hook at the neck and original buttons extending down the spine. The inner panel of the tunic features two important stamps: the first from Roize Fils – Costumier – Marseille, and the second from Aristide Boyer – Marseille with the catalog number 28283, confirming this costume remained in professional use well into the early 20th century.
This antique theatrical tunic was created by the historic Marseille costumier Roize Fils, and later inherited and catalogued by Aristide Boyer, who acquired the atelier in 1912. Featuring stamps from both houses, this garment represents a transitional moment in French costume history, when Roize’s legacy was preserved under Boyer’s stewardship. It likely dates from around 1890 to 1910, during the late 19th-century boom in French theater and opera.
Measurements (laid flat):
- Bust (underarm to underarm): 19 inches / 48 cm
- Waist: 15.5 inches / 39.5 cm
- Inside arm length: 22 inches / 56 cm
- Outside arm length: 33 inches / 84 cm
- Length from neck to hem: 34.5 inches / 87.5 cm
This piece has been carefully laundered by hand using a gentle detergent in cool water. It remains in stable, wearable condition, though signs of age and use are present. There is visible staining on the red neck fabric, likely caused by contact with another costume—possibly from dye or ink transfer. The red front fabric and its gold trim have come partially unstitched along one edge and would benefit from careful reinforcement. Several buttonholes are split or worn and also require restitching if intended for wear. There is some loss of velvet pile on the outer underarm areas, visible but not structurally damaging. On the right sleeve, there are a few sections of missing gold trim, though most of the decorative elements remain intact.
