Early 1900s French Theatre Jacket in Purple Wool – Renaissance Style – Aristide Boyer Marseille

Early 20th-century French theatre jacket in deep purple wool with pale grey wool sleeves, made by Aristide Boyer of Marseille (maker’s stamp inside). Dating to the early 1900s and made for the stage, this piece draws on Renaissance or medieval stylistic influences.

The jacket features an elongated waist, a fitted wool body, and decorative shoulder flaps that echo Renaissance doublets. The sleeves are made from soft grey wool in a classic tapered cut, each finished with a single button at the cuff. It fastens at the front with ten metal ring-back buttons.

Fully lined in cotton with quilted interior sections under the arms. Inside, the lining bears the maker’s stamp, handwritten names, and a costume number.

Condition:

Freshly laundered. There are several moth holes (some darned), grey marks on both sleeves, and an area at the back seam that has come unstitched. See close-ups for detail. 

The buttons are round metal ring-back style, each decorated with faceted beads; some of the beads are missing from a few of the buttons.

Measurements:

• Underarm to underarm: 18.5 in / 47 cm
• Shoulder to underarm: 9 in / 23 cm
• Sleeve length: 26 in / 66 cm
• Length from neck to front hem point: 27 in / 68.5 cm
• Length from neck to waist seam: 17 in / 43 cm

Fit guide:

Best suited to a modern XS–S depending on build and layering. Slim fit through the body with slightly more room in the sleeves. Tailored for theatrical wear with emphasis on vertical lines and strong shoulder detailing.