Antique French Tailcoat | Circa 1880s | Deep Claret Wool with Pale Salmon Trim | Thiery Aîné & Sigrand, Marseille

A striking example of late 19th-century French formal tailoring, this antique tailcoat was made by Thiery Aîné & Sigrand, a historic outfitter based at 22 Rue de la Canebière, Marseille. Cut in deep claret wool and trimmed with pale salmon-pink edging, the coat is double-breasted with covered buttons and a straight back with a single vent.

The cuffs are finished with curved trim in the same contrasting tone, and the lapels are gently shaped and piped to match. Fully lined in a deep burgundy fabric with a subtle sheen — likely a cotton or silk blend — and padded at the shoulders. The entire coat is hand stitched, including the buttonholes. The original woven label remains intact.

Although sourced from a group of early theatrical costume, this piece was almost certainly made for formal use — perhaps for a grand hotel, private residence, or ceremonial role — and later repurposed for performance. Its tailoring and construction suggest an origin well beyond costume.

Label:

Thiery Aîné & Sigrand

22 Rue Canebière 30, Marseille

Measurements (laid flat):

• Underarm to underarm: 18½ in / 47 cm
• Shoulder to shoulder: 15½ in / 39.5 cm
• Shoulder to underarm: 8 in / 20.5 cm
• Sleeve length: 20½ in / 52 cm
• Neck to waist: 19½ in / 49.5 cm
• Neck to hem: 38 in / 96.5 cm

Condition:

Freshly laundered and in overall very good condition for its age. The outer wool is clean, vibrant, and structurally strong, with only light general wear. One very small area on the top left shoulder (behind the neck) with moth nibbles and an area there with a few small stitches All original covered buttons are intact and secure. The coat is entirely hand stitched, including the buttonholes.

The lining shows expected signs of age: one rip along the hem and some fraying and holes but remains stable. No odours or stains.